A Little Buenos Aires On A Saturday Night

"Buy me what I want or you lose an eye!" Eugenio y Fernando with la torta de cumpleanos Cake and sparklers La Milonguita con un copa de vino Malbec.. muy bien!

Sarah y Eugenio

My housemate, Sarah has just begun dating a man from Uruguay. It was his birthday on Saturday and he kindly invited us both to his birthday shindig which was held at El Gaucho Argentinean grill on Nicholson St, Nth Carlton. It was nice to be surrounded by Argentinos and South Americans in general again.

Sooo good to eat parrilla again! My bife de chorizo wasn't as good as I hoped it would be as it wasn't cooked 'a punto' (medium rare). I did try something that I didn't when I was in B's A's and that was the offal platter. It wasn't too bad but I found I couldn't eat that much of it and also tried the famous morcilla (blood sausage) which is actually quite tasty!

I was meant to meet up with other people at Yah Yah's in Collingwood to see The Shimmys final gig but I was having such a good time at El Gaucho, I sent a text and cancelled. The group of people were all so friendly and I was enjoying the conversation and natural warmth of the people there. I'll definatly go back there to try other cuts of meat and throw back a few more glasses of that fabulous Malbec...

Tattoo Mystique Opening At Outre Gallery, Melbourne

Angelique and The Milonguita Out on the street with AH The girls chatting up Angelique whilst she has a smoko

The Artist Currently Known As Angelique delighting the fans

Outre curators Gemma Jones & Martin MacIntosh get the cash flow happening with Anglique's latest book and other merch. Breathe Gemma!

The queue for Tattoo Mystique- Angelique's second book thru Outre

Punters surrounded by the great works of Shag,Glenn Barr,Richie Fahey and Niagra whilst chilling out with a few Heinekens.

More punters and great art

No room to swing a cat

One of Angelique's latest-an original and sold before exhibition. I had to get a pic with it. Love this one a lot. Future tattoo perhaps??

The works of Ms Houtkamp

Angelique Houtkamp-She's Baaaack!!

Oh yes! The queen of tattoo fabulous will be at Outre Gallery this weekend showcasing her new collection and book 'Tattoo Mystique'. I can't wait to see if I can meet her and get a pic of her looking at my tattoo that is HER design- I hope she loves it as much as I do-although I don't feel that is possible.

Hogar Dulce Hogar!

I'm in. I finally have a place to call home. Not sure for how long but I'll take it. Now living with Sarah and Nina the dog. So far, so good. Come visit me in our little corner soon, peeps.

Me No Gusta

I've been in a snit lately. Someone's slipped me worm sandwich. I've been trying to think of good things to write about but I've been in such a dark mood, all I can think of are things that annoy me. So I thought-why not just make a list of things I don't like and just get my ya ya's out? Here's my list in no particular order;

• David Koch and Mel Doyle
• Suburbia
• Most television
• Conservatism
• Politicians
• Whingers (a bit rich considering this sounds a bit whiney)
• Comic Sans Font
• Modern day 'fashion'
• Bad Manners
• Fast Food
• Guys who wear their jeans at half mast revealing undies and arse crack
• Crap beer
• McDonalds
• Andrew Bolt
• Daryl Somers
• Top forty shizen music
• Bad coffee
• People with no imagination
• Wankers
• Hippies
• Corporations
• Cliches
• The fact that my mum never shuts the fuck up
• High rentals in good areas thus not allowing me to live alone on my crap salary
• Spiro from the FSU for not giving me a job that should have been mine
• Stupid interviewing techniques that some fucked up Americans thought is the way forward for employing people. Kill it.
• The guy who was meant to have moved out of the house I'm moving into a month ago thus causing me to be homeless longer than I needed to be. You had better be out by Monday you fucker or I'm coming after you with a baseball bat.
• That I'm not in Buenos Aires
• That I'm still working here
• Docklands
• Chain Stores
• Krispy Kreme
• Tabloid Magazines
• The Herald Sun
• The fact that Richmond never win
• My life at the moment

Seperated At Birth?

Bob Davis and Grandpa Munster- who knew?

Newport, New Beginnings?

"Sometimes I feel like a motherless child, a looooong way from hoooommme"... That old negro spiritual seems to befit me of late. I've been living like a hobo since my return from Buenos Aires and it's really giving me the shits. I've just finished my week in the 'Burg and am supposedly moving to my new digs in Newport. Problem is, the person who is meant to be gone is not. He's taking his sweet ass time about finding a place of his own and it's driving me nuts. Sarah will be in Sydney this weekend and I'll stay there to look after her dog. I'm assuming he will still be there. Maybe I should just say "Hi, I'm Maggie. Now get the fuck out!" Wonder if that would work? Perhaps not. Some people dream of winning lotto and never working again. I dream of my own room, a bed and a cupboard to put my clothes in. As they say, the simple things in life are often the best. I'm sick of living out of frigging suitcases and various other bags- I want a wardrobe goddamn it! Okay, enough of the negative crap. I don't want to dwell in that neighbourhood. Caught up with Caroline, one of my tango friends last night which usually consists of us going for a pedicure. Tango and tango shoes do untold damage on the footsies so regular maintenance is necessary. Post pedicure, we took our thonged feet to a bar on Chapel St (classy as) where they served a rather nice house red for $3.00 a glass! After 2 glasses and a D and M, we trammed it down to Victoria St where we met my friends Contessa and Mr Ian for some rather tasty Vietnamese food. Caroline had to dash early to get her bus (we are kindred spirits at the moment- both of us are 40 somethings living at home with our mums due to inability to find decent housing) and I stayed and had a great catch up with Ian and Tess. They very nicely drove me back to Coburg and I flaked out on the couch due to much food and 4 glasses of wine! I think I'm becoming a lightweight in my old age... then again, 2 glasses of red on an empty stomach isn't a great idea! Looking forward to watching what I feel will be a great game for the Grand Final. I'm going for the Saints. I feel more of an affinity towards them than the Hand baggers but I feel the Cats will not rest on their Abletts this year. Also looking forward to frocking up and heading out to Messaround and Bama Lama- last time I went I was jetlagged to the max so I want to try and go all out this month! It's such a great night! Fantastic music and a room full of well dressed people-I love it!

Is There A Point To This?

Not sure if this is a shame o meter or a slut o meter. Whatever it is, it couldn't help me. I think the Age must be scraping the bucket for a story.

I Was Wondering....

If Cher is disappointed that her daughter is a truck drivin' dyke?

Another Year Older & Just As Loved

It was my birthday yesterday and I'm another year older. My knees hurt. I ended up spreading birthday celebrations across the whole weekend! It became that way due to friends wanting to spend it with me but unable to see me yesterday so this is how it panned out; FRIDAY NIGHT: Decided to have dinner and drinks at the Edinburgh Castle as it seemed to be a good night for everyone for a birthday celebration. It was also my friend Jim's CD launch so it meant bringing a few more bodies for support. Jim was fantastic and I got to see a few people that I hadn't seen in ages. Post CD launch, a few of us trundled down to the Retreat for an excellent night of booze and boogie-ing to the likes of the Pixies,Clash,Pogues,Specials et al. Happy days. Jo and I crawled back to her place at 2.45am and crashed. After 3 weeks of couch surfing, a bed was a welcome relief. SATURDAY: Jo and I woke the next morning feeling rather seedy so a good greasy breakfast was needed. After a coffee at home and a good shower, we got in the car where she shouted me breakfast at my favourite breakfast spot, El Mirage. Steve,Cathryn and Thanh were there having breakfast as well. We were all craving the 'Gringo' -poached eggs,tex mex beans,bacon and cottage potatoes- YUM. Not to mention one of the best coffees in East Brunswick. After that, Jo dropped me back home where I had a kip on the couch as I was muy cansada (knackered). After consuming (snarfing) a divine roast cooked by my lovely sister, I dollied up and headed out to attend 'Milonga Para Los Niños' - a night to raise funds for an orphanage being built in Argentina. I'd love to say I had a kick arse night but if it weren't for the presence of Sabrina,Ralph,Melanie and a few others, it would have been a bit of a downer. It was nice to frock up in my latest vintage frock purchased from an antique store in San Telmo, BA , give my new red hair a 40's style 'do and wear my outstanding tango shoes from Gretaflora but besides that, lack lustre. Was glad to get home and crash on yet another couch-this time, Mel and Pepijn's. SUNDAY: Woke up to find Baci staring at me with those huge eyes of her's. She has the squeakiest meow of any cat I've ever known. Mel and Pep got up not long after that and after cleaning up and having coffee, we headed to Brunswick St for brunch at the Provincial where we met up with the Buenos Aires posse and a few other friends for a lovely afternoon. Said goodbye to Ralph and Sabrina and headed back to Richmond to pick up my stuff from Mel & Peps before making my way to mum's for birthday dinner. After that, my sister dropped me off in Coburg where I have begun a week long houseminding stint. Hallellujah! Just me and the cat being lazy till Friday! I do like the northern suburbs. If it doesn't work out with Sarah in Newport, I'll definatly be looking for digs there. Me gusto mucho. Here we are again on Monday. I'm feeling good and positive about this week. Going to try and keep it low key- no going out until Saturday night. Mess around and Bama Lama on the same night and I want to go to both. Should be a rip snorter!

Ch Ch Ch Changes

It's official. I'm now a ranga... and I'm moving to Newport.

I'm hoping for domestic bliss and non fading colour.

Yes, they are beach umbrellas in the background. Don't ask.

And no, we don't get pina coladas or Mai Tai's.

Back In Slack

MM with Luciano,waiter extrodinaire from Del Plata

All good things must come to an end. Yes folks, I have returned from BA and now sitting at my desk in grey old Docklands, looking at Etihad Stadium and not really knowing my arse from my elbow.

I'm tired, still slightly jet lagged, at the tail end of a cold and still living out of suitcases due to my still homeless situation. I'm couch surfing at my sister's and I'm already getting sick of it. Time to find a place to call home, even if for only a short while. I need a bed and a wardrobe. I've come back to a pile of work so this is just a blog to let you know where I am. I'm trying not to be sad about leaving Argentina but I have to admit it's hard. I will start to throw myself into new endeavours and seek new opportunities. There's no point being morose and besides, I can always return which I plan to do. This time I'll be armed with more cash and the Spanish language. Both help a lot. In the meanwhile, I'll get my brain back, a room with or without a view and get my life back on schedule.

My Last Day & Night in Buenos Aires

A stunning day here in Buenos Aires. Sun shining and Jose singing in the hallway. How quickly time passes yet, I feel like I've been here for ages. I can't believe I'm leaving tomorrow. Can't someone just stuff wads of cash into my account for the rest of my life so I can stay here? I almost didn't get out of bed this morning. My head feels like it's going to explode. I took a couple of paraceutemol, took a long,hot shower and lay down for a bit. I realised yesterday that I hadn't been to La Boca and despite it's reputation and being overly touristy, I felt my pilgrimage wouldn't be complete without going. So I hopped into a cab and went there. Yes, touristy and tacky. I was able to do some last minute shopping and after being pimped and prodded I cabbed it back here to San Telmo. Just making a bit of pasta as a hole filler before I have my last beef supper downstairs with the beautiful people of Gran Parrilla Del Plata. They have been so good to me-then again I give them pretty good tips! It's nice that I have been treated kindly by the fabulous people of Buenos Aires despite the language barrier. I can't express how much I will miss this place. I was going through the things I bought as souvineers for everyone and realised I hadn't bought anything for myself in the way of snow cones, statues, etc etc. Then I thought about it and came to the conclusion that Buenos Aires can't be summed up for me that way. I've taken many photos of different things to try and capture a feeling. This is what I will take back to Australia with me- the magic and warmth of the portenos and the spirit of BA. Plus 6 pairs of tango shoes. Off to my last milonga tonight. I'm tossing up between Bohemia and Tango Queer- only because the latter is a 2 minute walk from where I'm staying. I'll see if I have the strength to fit both in! This is my last post in this magical city. Next time I write, I guess I'll be at my computer at work dreaming my way back to Argentina.

The Buenos Aires Crud

It's official- I have a cold and starting to feel like crap. Nearly everyone I know who comes home from a stint in Buenos Aires does so with a cold and I am no exception. I thought it would hit me once I landed in Melbourne but it's got me now. With all the running around I'm doing plus inhaling the 'Malos Aires' (bad airs), the BA crud has knocked me for six. I ended up going to a milonga last night called 'La Milonguita'!! How's that? The Milonguita went to La Milonguita and had a sensational time. I arrived there after everyone else and was pleasantly surprised to see Hugo Daniel and his lovely novia, Antoinella there. I was able to have 2 dances and spend Sabrina,Ralph,Daniel and Erica's last night in BA with them. Such a nice milonga- great atmosphere and delightful people. Even the waitress was friendly and gave us hugs and kisses on our departure. I had my private class with Aurora and it was amazing. She was impressed with my progress and I told her I tried to implement what she taught the group last Tuesday when I went dancing. Aurora also designs and sells her own line of tango shoes so I bought a pair off her! I know, I know. That's it- six and out! After her class, I walked down to Gallerias Pacifico for Hugo's class and again, amazing. Hugo and Aurora used to be partners and broke up but their style of teaching is the same. Simple and effective. Both know how to teach and work with people. I have a confidence in my tango that I've never experienced before. It helps that there is so much tango here and you're able to put into practice what you've learned every single day. So, back at the ranch. I'm going to have a shower and a kip. I really need to rest if I'm gonna make it home in one piece plus have the energy to do a couple more milongas. Once I get back to Melbourne, I'll be giving tango a rest so I won't be disappointed so quickly when I'll have deal with the push/pull/race me around the floor style dancing that Australian men think is tango. I can live without that for ooh-let me -see...FOREVER!

Dulce De Domingo

Sunday evening and I'm sitting on my bed eating a plate of pasta. I gave some to gorgeous Nahuel on the front desk and he has just come in to say thanks and give me a peppermint choccie. Little sweetheart. I had a bit of a sleep in, then headed to La Poesia for my de riguer cafe con leche y tres media lunas. I then walked down to catch the E line at Bolivar subte out to the last station and caught the train to the last stop and taxied it out to Feria de Mataderos. It's a Sunday market with gauchos and folkloric dancing and the ubiquitous asados. Very fun. I spent about 2 hours walking around and buying a few things. I ate a dulce de leche wafer and it was soooo good. Ran in the opposite direction to stop myself from gettting more. I don't know how this nation don't have arses the size of the Teatro Colon eating that stuff all the time! I look at the jar and gain 5 kilos! I was told that bus number 126 takes you all the way there and all the way back. I heard the people next to me speaking english so I asked if I could share a cab with them. The woman said it was okay provided we could get one. Listening to her rabbit on, I realised this might be the cab ride from hell. Salvation arrived in the form of the 126 bus so I ran for the bus instead. I reached into my purse to get coins for the machine. I didn't have the $1,10 required and was waiting for the driver to stop the bus and point to the door. Instead, he just waived me through with a smile. Nice! May that man win lotto this week! Not only did the bus go via San Telmo, it stopped right outside my door! Wish I'd known that this morning- could have saved me some time and money. Then again, I would have missed out on my flirty cab ride with Javier the taxi driver! Back in San Telmo, I dropped my stuff and headed down to Defensa again to check out the market. Soooo many people as it's a beautiful day today so they were out in droves

(and probably still are). Got to photograph the batucada band this time and they sounded even better this week. I bought a few more things but 2 crowds at markets at one day was a touch overwhelming for me so I called it a day and came back here to make my pasta. I went to the Milonga de la Consagrado which was held at Nino Bien last night and it was amazing. I managed to score 5 fabulous dances and got to meet a blog friend, Tango Cherie (hi Cherie!). Post milonga-which ended at 10.30pm, I came back to the hostel, went to Del Plata for dinner and then went to bed. There was really no point in going to a milonga alone and watching everyone dance. I felt sated from the one I went to and thought I should stop while the going was good. One night of great dancing and fabulous food and wine in my belly was all this girl needed. I think I'm coming down with a cold. It seems everyone I've known who has come to Buenos Aires has arrived back in Melbourne with a cold or flu of sorts and I guess I won't be exempt. I don't think I can be bothered going out tonight. I know I should be making the most of my last days here but I'm really tired. I can't stop thinking of a hot shower and getting under the covers- even though it's only 7.35 pm! It isn't even dinner time in this town! I have a private lesson with Aurora tomorrow so maybe I should stay in and rest for an hour of intense training! Watch this space to see what I ended up doing...

Ultimo Sabado en Buenos Aires

Another glorious day in this fabulous city. I'm sitting on my bed with the balcony door open and listening to the sounds rising up from the street. All the cafes are chockers with people dining and enjoying being away from work. I'm fighting the urge to sleep as there's a milonga I want to go to and this is my last opportunity. I can sleep later. Saturday night is date night in Buenos Aires so chances of getting a dance tonight are buckleys and none. All the men dance with only their wives or girlfriends and that's just the way it is. The milonga I'm going to is a bit different and seems to be the only one on a Saturday where a single person be it man or woman can get a dance. I'm trying to get as much tango in before I have to come home as I know I won't have it again- at least until I return which I very much plan to. Dancing tango back in Australia will be even more disappointing and frustrating that ever now. I will miss the way the men hold you and glide you effortlessly around the floor. I think I'll need a break from it when I return but for now, I'm going hard core! I had my class with Graciela Gonzales the other night and it was fabulous. It was amazing to see two women teach a class on technique for couples rather than the usual dictorial male with female accompanyment. It was easy to understand (despite the whole lesson being in Spanish) and they teach very well. This morning I had another class with Aurora who teaches technique for women and she is just the best. I'm looking forward to my private class with her on Monday. Hopefully she can iron out my mistakes and I can keep practicing to perfect the art of balance and posture. My Americano friend, Joey left today to move to Maderos, which is another part of Buenos Aires. He's been great to chat to while I've been here. We've exchanged email addresses and will keep in contact. This hostel has been amazing. I've got a huge room with a double bed and a balcony that lets me people watch to my heart's content. The domestic staff come in everyday to change and make my bed and clean the room. All this for only 80 pesos a night. There is hardly anyone here due to it being low season so it's really quiet. Everyone that works here is fantastic. I think I'm going to have a little siesta and then get ready to check out this milonga in Congreso for a short while. I hope to get a couple of dances and then meet up with Sabrina y Ralph for a nice dinner somewhere and then onto another milonga to watch the couples dance the night away. I guess observation can be a good teacher as well. I have to enjoy each moment while I have the opportunity as this time next week I'll be waking up in Melbourne and not Buenos Aires.

Carlos Gardel y Margarita

I fully intended to keep this blog up by uploading pics and writing a little blurb each day on my time here in Buenos Aires but I guess I've busier than anticipated. I've also used the time that I thought I would write on siestas and usually when I awake, I get out and find dinner. Not quite dinner time here so I thought I'd catch up on some details. Since I last wrote, I've done 3 amazing classes. First with the incredibly talented (and muy guapo) Hugo Daniel on basic tango technique then with a woman named Gabriella who is a specialist in a technique called milonga con traispie (milonga rhythm with 'tripping'-). A bit hard to explain this one but it's not easy but amazing to learn and do. The following night, Di organised a class for all the Australian women to have a class with Aurora who is great at correcting posture and showing you the basics in tango which are a lot harder than one would imagine. I was all over the shop but towards the end started getting a bit better. I've booked a one on one class with her this coming Monday and I know it will be worth every peso. Also on Tuesday in the afternoon, I was in Centro wandering around and there were buskers doing street tango. I had my shoes with me as I was going to a class and they asked if I did tango. I said 'si' and he got me up for a spin. It was hard to swivel in my street shoes (should have put my jazz sneakers on at least) but it was a lot of fun and a good laugh. I have photos to remind me. Yesterday, I taxied it over to Chacarita Cemetary to see the final resting places of some of my favourite tango muscians; Carlos Gardel, Osvaldo Pugliese, Carlos Di Sarli and Anibal Troilo. Lots of great and cheesy pics especially with Gardel who always had a cigarette between his fingers. I bought a packet of ciggies and a lighter just so I could do this as well! My bus/tour guide chico took me around specially and took all my photos. I wasn't going to stand up on the tomb but he was pointing and saying 'arriba!' (up) so up I got. Glad I did because it made for better pics. We went to a gay milonga after dinner last night and the dancing between the men was sensational. I had one horrible dance with a tourist who was in one of my classes the other day. Shocking- felt like I was back in Melbourne being shoved around. What is it with guys who don't understand the simplicity of the social dance? Why must they try every single step and manouvre they've learned in one dance? Mucho frustrado. I had a quiet-ish one today and caught up with Ralph and Sabrina in the afternoon. We went to La Poesia for coffee and media lunas first and then we walked to Centro to check out the free tango stuff at Harrods. Gretaflora shoes had a stall there and I bought a beautiful green pair for 250 pesos which is nothing- Gretaflora can be a bit expensive normally and their shoes are gorgeous. I have now purchased 5 pairs of shoes! That's actually modest compared to Sabrina who is up to 12 and still going! Tonight I am having a class with Graciella Gonzalez which will be a dream come true. Dianne has told me about her for ages and how amazing her technique is, especially with women. What hooked me was an ad I saw in one of the free tango magazines someone brought home with them. Most tango teachers do standard tango poses in full dress. Her ad was a picture of her sitting on a bench with her cat. She was wearing fluffy slippers and smoking a ciggie. I saw that and said 'she's for me!'. That unpretentious picture spoke volumes to me. Let's hope I do okay and benefit from her knowledge. I will find it hard to leave this little pocket of Buenos Aires that I've come to know and love in such a short time. I've been to the restaurant downstairs so often they greet me at the door with kisses and joy. They call me part of their family. I will miss them all so much. I'm still here and will be for another five days so I'll enjoy every moment and just go hard core with everything I love about this place.

Lazy Sunday In San Telmo

One week on in Buenos Aires... I may never leave! After a mad week of milongas,classes,touristy bits and shoe shopping, I woke up this morning and decided to have a quiet one today. We went to a milonga last night that took us half an hour in a cab to get there and it wasn't very good. Very cliquey and snooty and we were wondering who you had to fuck to get a dance. We went there because David and Di were asked to perform there and we were told it was quite an honour as some of the best dancers and teachers go there. The women on the door were bitches and the milonga is held in a decrepit basketball hall. There was a storm last night (wicked!) and the rain was coming in through the roof! Anyway, we did it for David and Di and they were grateful to us for the support. I got back to my room at 5 am and was shattered. I was meant to go on a boat ride to Tigre but it was raining and windy. Luisa said it was a bad day for it so I rang the gang and let them know that I would be a no show for the day excursion. I really needed a day to myself. After breakfast and only 4 hours sleep, I decided to come back to bed and have a few more hours! I woke up and went for a walk a couple of streets from here to Defensa, where they have a street market. It was packed with people and the usual handicrafts that I've seen everywhere. I bought a couple of things and then sat at a corner cafe to have a cafe con leche and an empanada. There was a Mapuche couple playing indiginous instruments on the other corner and it was lovely. They played to a backing track and one of the tunes is a song from 'Y Tu Mama Tambien'. I sat there thinking what a perfect moment it was- listening to this music and enjoying my coffee from a corner in Buenos Aires. After my coffee, I wandered back the other way and noticed a batucada group about to start on a corner so I stayed to listen to them and they were amazing! I love batacada (Brazilian drums) and after donating 5 pesos to them, I stayed to have a little boogie! Too bad I forgot to take my camera as it would have made a great photo. Markets are a prime target for tourists to be pick pocketed so I took minimal cash with me and left my camera back here. So, back in my room, being lazy again and wondering where I'll go for dinner. I've had dinner downstairs most night because it's fantastic and also very convenient but I need a break from parilla and might try another place I discovered around the corner called La Poesma. I'm off to Torquato Tasso tonight which is the first milonga I went to- it was a good one and you seem to get dances there. Let's hope the strike rate is good again! I went to 2 milongas on Friday- one at Confiteria Ideal and another one that was just out past the one we went to last night and I had dances at both. At the second one, I only danced with this guy named Victor who my amigos were convinced wanted to come home with me! He danced with me a lot even though our first dance was clunky and he kept putting his arm around me. He was quite attractive-he looked Mapuche- but the language barrier makes things a bit difficult! He was a beautiful dancer but most Argentino men are. I wonder how I'll ever go to a milonga or practica in Melbourne again. I've been so spoiled here and loathe the thought of going back to Australian men who rush you around the floor and push your arm like you're a poker machine! The weather up until now has been warm and almost Summer-like but we had a massive storm last night and today has been very chilly. It's the first time I've had to wear my coat which I think I'll be taking tonight as well. I think I may also make it an alcohol free night as it's been constant with drinking every night although I haven't really been drunk. It's not the done thing here and you wouldn't risk it as a tourist. You can get a drink anywhere- I bought a beer from the milk bar across the road! You can get wine and spirits as well. A bottle of water and a bottle of beer cost the same price. Okay, off to shower and get ready. I'm getting hungry and need food. Pictures soon- I promise!

Cementerio de la Recoleta and Furry Friends

Spent the afternoon at this amazing place. Here's me at the front of Eva Peron's tomb at Recoleta Cemetary. Surprisingly modest compared to other people's crypts. This place is like a suburb and the some of the tombs are bigger than peoples houses! I guess there's still money in this town despite the crash of 2002 and the devalued peso. I've been having trouble uploading my pics to my blog for some reason. I'll hopefully get some up soon using another computer. Began the day at Comme il Fait, which are the Manolo Blahnik's of tango shoes. Quite the experience going there but a good one. You climb a flight of stairs, ring a door bell, they let you in,sit you down and bring boxes of shoes out to you. The first pair they brought out were the one's I bought- black classic style with red polka dots and red heel cap. I just love them. They're the most expensive shoes I've bought in a long time but I figure, hey, when will I get out here again and how long can I wear these kinds of shoes for? I'd never get that kind of experience in Melbourne. I love this city and I'm so glad I'm here.

El Martes en Buenos Aires

Day four of my holiday and all is well. I think the jet lag has finally begun to lift so I´m starting to feel normal again. I´m trying to live the porteño lifestyle of late lunch and dinner and staying out late. Seems to work for them so why not? I woke up on Sunday and thought to myself ¨I should get up soon or I´ll miss desayuno (breakfast) only to find it was nearly 2pm! I´d missed lunch as well! I quickly readied myself and headed down in the direction of Plaza Dorrego for the market,street tango and musicians when I realised I´d taken a wrong turn and ended up in Retiro! Never mind, I explored that area which is mainly a shopping precinct. I liked it because the city is generally pretty quiet on the weekend and that area is the height of activity. Buenos Aires is a great city to walk around. It began to get dark so I found my way home. By then I was getting pretty hungry so I decided to go downstairs to La Plata where I had been the night before because the food is amazing and when you do the conversion back to Aussie dollars, it´s bloody cheap too. My waiter from the night before welcomes me and says he´s glad I returned. I order un copa de vino tinto and view the menu. I decide on the salmon as it comes with papas fritas and salad. Very good again although nothing tops that beef. After cenar, I return to my hostel and ask the guy at the desk where a good milonga is. He gets me excited about one in La Boca where they pick you up and on arrival receive a three course meal, 5 tangos shows, a tango orchestra and of course, lots of tango dancing. Then they drive you back at the end of the night. Excellent, I say. Call them up. He speaks rapid fire Spanish into the receiver,hangs up and tells me it doesn´t happen on Sundays! He passes me a post card with details of one that looks pretty good so I gussy up for the night and get a taxi down there. For all you non tangoers out there, I will briefly explain how a milonga works. The music is played in what is known as a tanda which is usually 4 songs - 4 tangos, 4 vals <(waltz in tango rhythm) and 3 milongas, which is a faster rhythm. Between each tanda, they use a different style of music to note that the music style is about to change. This is known as the cortina or ´the curtain´. Getting dances in Buenos Aires is a whole different ball game. In Australia, we just ask people to dance. Over here, it´s a wordless transaction. The man stands near you and uses eye and head gestures to get your attention. If you want to dance, you make eye contact and nod. If you don´t, you just look at your shoes and pretend you didn´t see him. This allows him to move on and try someone else. Sometimes the man will even use cabeceos from across the room. I walk in, find a seat at the back and then order a drink. Whilst at the bar, the tanda ends and the cortina is The Clash! I sit down and hope I get a dance. I don´t hope or wonder for very long as I get one straight away. He dances a full tanda with me and I sit down. Not long after that, I get asked again. Another tanda- I´m doing well. After my copa de vino tinto, I order a agua con gas as I´m dead thirsty by this stage. I´m not bothered by being there sola either until I spot a woman who looks just like Di only to find out it is! Major coinky dinky that we ended up in the same milonga out of many in Buenos Aires! My friends Sabrina and Ralph were with them too and it was good to see them. The milonga ends at 2am. I bid the group farewell and David helps me get a taxi home. Monday, I made myself get up early as I´m trying to set my body clock to B´s A´s time . Still exhausted but I do it. I go to breakfast and chat with Luisa who works here.She´s very sweet and her english is good. I finally try the infamous dulce de leche and I have to say, it´s pretty bloody good! I have to take a couple of jars home. I know Gayle and Cathryn are gonna love it! Just as well I´ve walked everywhere as I´ll be twice the size getting home if I eat that stuff! I got ready and headed towards Confiteria Ideal. I waited for Di and the others and after a while it was obvious they weren´t going to be there so I stayed and did a lesson. I have some work to do on my tango, that´s for sure! After a gruelling 3 hour long lesson, I went in search of food downstairs and ordered some pasta. It was home made and fresh, but in true Argentine style, the sauce was boring but it hit the spot nonetheless. By this stage, I was retarded with exhaustion so I made my way home and slept for about 3 hours. I got dressed and went downstairs for dinner again! Mariano, who´s been looking after me, raced over and apologised that he couldn´t be my waiter as he was looking after the president of Antartica and his guests! Nay bother, I get the lovely Jorge and we get through ordering the meal with no problems. I order the medallion of beef again because it's sublime and have it with a rocket and tomato salad. More vinto tinto of course but only one glass tonight. I get back to my room and study the milonga guide for Monday and find one that's a 2 minute walk from here. I get there and lo and behold! David, Dianne and the Melbournites are all there! They have tango shows and the most amazing tango orchestra plays. This milonga is very cliquey so I don't get a dance but I don't mind. Ralph and Sabrina graciously offer to walk me home and they get a taxi immediatly. Actually, in a town of 40,000 cabs, it's pretty easy to grab one. I know the title of this blog is El Martes en Buenos Aires, but I was falling asleep writing it so I saved it as a draft and I'm finishing it now and it's actually the very early hours of el jueves (thursday). I'll bring you up to speed with what's going on soon. Tomorrow we go to Comme Il Fait,the Manolo Blahnik of tango shoes and then to Cemeterio de la Recoleta where we will see the tomb of Eva Peron. Can't wait. Dormir , tal vez e sueno- that's my bad attempt at saying ' To sleep perchance to dream' but I think I've fucked it royally. Lo siento... Photos soon.