Monday, August 17, 2009
Lazy Sunday In San Telmo
One week on in Buenos Aires... I may never leave! After a mad week of milongas,classes,touristy bits and shoe shopping, I woke up this morning and decided to have a quiet one today. We went to a milonga last night that took us half an hour in a cab to get there and it wasn't very good. Very cliquey and snooty and we were wondering who you had to fuck to get a dance. We went there because David and Di were asked to perform there and we were told it was quite an honour as some of the best dancers and teachers go there. The women on the door were bitches and the milonga is held in a decrepit basketball hall. There was a storm last night (wicked!) and the rain was coming in through the roof! Anyway, we did it for David and Di and they were grateful to us for the support. I got back to my room at 5 am and was shattered. I was meant to go on a boat ride to Tigre but it was raining and windy. Luisa said it was a bad day for it so I rang the gang and let them know that I would be a no show for the day excursion. I really needed a day to myself. After breakfast and only 4 hours sleep, I decided to come back to bed and have a few more hours! I woke up and went for a walk a couple of streets from here to Defensa, where they have a street market. It was packed with people and the usual handicrafts that I've seen everywhere. I bought a couple of things and then sat at a corner cafe to have a cafe con leche and an empanada. There was a Mapuche couple playing indiginous instruments on the other corner and it was lovely. They played to a backing track and one of the tunes is a song from 'Y Tu Mama Tambien'. I sat there thinking what a perfect moment it was- listening to this music and enjoying my coffee from a corner in Buenos Aires. After my coffee, I wandered back the other way and noticed a batucada group about to start on a corner so I stayed to listen to them and they were amazing! I love batacada (Brazilian drums) and after donating 5 pesos to them, I stayed to have a little boogie! Too bad I forgot to take my camera as it would have made a great photo. Markets are a prime target for tourists to be pick pocketed so I took minimal cash with me and left my camera back here. So, back in my room, being lazy again and wondering where I'll go for dinner. I've had dinner downstairs most night because it's fantastic and also very convenient but I need a break from parilla and might try another place I discovered around the corner called La Poesma. I'm off to Torquato Tasso tonight which is the first milonga I went to- it was a good one and you seem to get dances there. Let's hope the strike rate is good again! I went to 2 milongas on Friday- one at Confiteria Ideal and another one that was just out past the one we went to last night and I had dances at both. At the second one, I only danced with this guy named Victor who my amigos were convinced wanted to come home with me! He danced with me a lot even though our first dance was clunky and he kept putting his arm around me. He was quite attractive-he looked Mapuche- but the language barrier makes things a bit difficult! He was a beautiful dancer but most Argentino men are. I wonder how I'll ever go to a milonga or practica in Melbourne again. I've been so spoiled here and loathe the thought of going back to Australian men who rush you around the floor and push your arm like you're a poker machine! The weather up until now has been warm and almost Summer-like but we had a massive storm last night and today has been very chilly. It's the first time I've had to wear my coat which I think I'll be taking tonight as well. I think I may also make it an alcohol free night as it's been constant with drinking every night although I haven't really been drunk. It's not the done thing here and you wouldn't risk it as a tourist. You can get a drink anywhere- I bought a beer from the milk bar across the road! You can get wine and spirits as well. A bottle of water and a bottle of beer cost the same price. Okay, off to shower and get ready. I'm getting hungry and need food. Pictures soon- I promise!