Wednesday, August 26, 2009
My Last Day & Night in Buenos Aires
A stunning day here in Buenos Aires. Sun shining and Jose singing in the hallway.
How quickly time passes yet, I feel like I've been here for ages. I can't believe I'm leaving tomorrow. Can't someone just stuff wads of cash into my account for the rest of my life so I can stay here?
I almost didn't get out of bed this morning. My head feels like it's going to explode. I took a couple of paraceutemol, took a long,hot shower and lay down for a bit. I realised yesterday that I hadn't been to La Boca and despite it's reputation and being overly touristy, I felt my pilgrimage wouldn't be complete without going. So I hopped into a cab and went there. Yes, touristy and tacky. I was able to do some last minute shopping and after being pimped and prodded I cabbed it back here to San Telmo.
Just making a bit of pasta as a hole filler before I have my last beef supper downstairs with the beautiful people of Gran Parrilla Del Plata. They have been so good to me-then again I give them pretty good tips! It's nice that I have been treated kindly by the fabulous people of Buenos Aires despite the language barrier. I can't express how much I will miss this place.
I was going through the things I bought as souvineers for everyone and realised I hadn't bought anything for myself in the way of snow cones, statues, etc etc. Then I thought about it and came to the conclusion that Buenos Aires can't be summed up for me that way. I've taken many photos of different things to try and capture a feeling. This is what I will take back to Australia with me- the magic and warmth of the portenos and the spirit of BA. Plus 6 pairs of tango shoes.
Off to my last milonga tonight. I'm tossing up between Bohemia and Tango Queer- only because the latter is a 2 minute walk from where I'm staying. I'll see if I have the strength to fit both in!
This is my last post in this magical city. Next time I write, I guess I'll be at my computer at work dreaming my way back to Argentina.
Tuesday, August 25, 2009
The Buenos Aires Crud
It's official- I have a cold and starting to feel like crap.
Nearly everyone I know who comes home from a stint in Buenos Aires does so with a cold and I am no exception. I thought it would hit me once I landed in Melbourne but it's got me now. With all the running around I'm doing plus inhaling the 'Malos Aires' (bad airs), the BA crud has knocked me for six.
I ended up going to a milonga last night called 'La Milonguita'!! How's that? The Milonguita went to La Milonguita and had a sensational time. I arrived there after everyone else and was pleasantly surprised to see Hugo Daniel and his lovely novia, Antoinella there. I was able to have 2 dances and spend Sabrina,Ralph,Daniel and Erica's last night in BA with them. Such a nice milonga- great atmosphere and delightful people. Even the waitress was friendly and gave us hugs and kisses on our departure.
I had my private class with Aurora and it was amazing. She was impressed with my progress and I told her I tried to implement what she taught the group last Tuesday when I went dancing. Aurora also designs and sells her own line of tango shoes so I bought a pair off her! I know, I know. That's it- six and out! After her class, I walked down to Gallerias Pacifico for Hugo's class and again, amazing. Hugo and Aurora used to be partners and broke up but their style of teaching is the same. Simple and effective. Both know how to teach and work with people. I have a confidence in my tango that I've never experienced before. It helps that there is so much tango here and you're able to put into practice what you've learned every single day.
So, back at the ranch. I'm going to have a shower and a kip. I really need to rest if I'm gonna make it home in one piece plus have the energy to do a couple more milongas. Once I get back to Melbourne, I'll be giving tango a rest so I won't be disappointed so quickly when I'll have deal with the push/pull/race me around the floor style dancing that Australian men think is tango. I can live without that for ooh-let me -see...FOREVER!
Monday, August 24, 2009
Dulce De Domingo


Sunday, August 23, 2009
Ultimo Sabado en Buenos Aires
Another glorious day in this fabulous city.
I'm sitting on my bed with the balcony door open and listening to the sounds rising up from the street. All the cafes are chockers with people dining and enjoying being away from work. I'm fighting the urge to sleep as there's a milonga I want to go to and this is my last opportunity. I can sleep later.
Saturday night is date night in Buenos Aires so chances of getting a dance tonight are buckleys and none. All the men dance with only their wives or girlfriends and that's just the way it is. The milonga I'm going to is a bit different and seems to be the only one on a Saturday where a single person be it man or woman can get a dance.
I'm trying to get as much tango in before I have to come home as I know I won't have it again- at least until I return which I very much plan to. Dancing tango back in Australia will be even more disappointing and frustrating that ever now. I will miss the way the men hold you and glide you effortlessly around the floor. I think I'll need a break from it when I return but for now, I'm going hard core!
I had my class with Graciela Gonzales the other night and it was fabulous. It was amazing to see two women teach a class on technique for couples rather than the usual dictorial male with female accompanyment. It was easy to understand (despite the whole lesson being in Spanish) and they teach very well. This morning I had another class with Aurora who teaches technique for women and she is just the best. I'm looking forward to my private class with her on Monday. Hopefully she can iron out my mistakes and I can keep practicing to perfect the art of balance and posture.
My Americano friend, Joey left today to move to Maderos, which is another part of Buenos Aires. He's been great to chat to while I've been here. We've exchanged email addresses and will keep in contact. This hostel has been amazing. I've got a huge room with a double bed and a balcony that lets me people watch to my heart's content. The domestic staff come in everyday to change and make my bed and clean the room. All this for only 80 pesos a night. There is hardly anyone here due to it being low season so it's really quiet. Everyone that works here is fantastic.
I think I'm going to have a little siesta and then get ready to check out this milonga in Congreso for a short while. I hope to get a couple of dances and then meet up with Sabrina y Ralph for a nice dinner somewhere and then onto another milonga to watch the couples dance the night away. I guess observation can be a good teacher as well. I have to enjoy each moment while I have the opportunity as this time next week I'll be waking up in Melbourne and not Buenos Aires.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Carlos Gardel y Margarita


Monday, August 17, 2009
Lazy Sunday In San Telmo
One week on in Buenos Aires... I may never leave!
After a mad week of milongas,classes,touristy bits and shoe shopping, I woke up this morning and decided to have a quiet one today.
We went to a milonga last night that took us half an hour in a cab to get there and it wasn't very good. Very cliquey and snooty and we were wondering who you had to fuck to get a dance. We went there because David and Di were asked to perform there and we were told it was quite an honour as some of the best dancers and teachers go there. The women on the door were bitches and the milonga is held in a decrepit basketball hall. There was a storm last night (wicked!) and the rain was coming in through the roof! Anyway, we did it for David and Di and they were grateful to us for the support. I got back to my room at 5 am and was shattered. I was meant to go on a boat ride to Tigre but it was raining and windy. Luisa said it was a bad day for it so I rang the gang and let them know that I would be a no show for the day excursion. I really needed a day to myself.
After breakfast and only 4 hours sleep, I decided to come back to bed and have a few more hours! I woke up and went for a walk a couple of streets from here to Defensa, where they have a street market. It was packed with people and the usual handicrafts that I've seen everywhere. I bought a couple of things and then sat at a corner cafe to have a cafe con leche and an empanada. There was a Mapuche couple playing indiginous instruments on the other corner and it was lovely. They played to a backing track and one of the tunes is a song from 'Y Tu Mama Tambien'. I sat there thinking what a perfect moment it was- listening to this music and enjoying my coffee from a corner in Buenos Aires. After my coffee, I wandered back the other way and noticed a batucada group about to start on a corner so I stayed to listen to them and they were amazing! I love batacada (Brazilian drums) and after donating 5 pesos to them, I stayed to have a little boogie! Too bad I forgot to take my camera as it would have made a great photo. Markets are a prime target for tourists to be pick pocketed so I took minimal cash with me and left my camera back here.
So, back in my room, being lazy again and wondering where I'll go for dinner. I've had dinner downstairs most night because it's fantastic and also very convenient but I need a break from parilla and might try another place I discovered around the corner called La Poesma. I'm off to Torquato Tasso tonight which is the first milonga I went to- it was a good one and you seem to get dances there. Let's hope the strike rate is good again! I went to 2 milongas on Friday- one at Confiteria Ideal and another one that was just out past the one we went to last night and I had dances at both. At the second one, I only danced with this guy named Victor who my amigos were convinced wanted to come home with me! He danced with me a lot even though our first dance was clunky and he kept putting his arm around me. He was quite attractive-he looked Mapuche- but the language barrier makes things a bit difficult! He was a beautiful dancer but most Argentino men are. I wonder how I'll ever go to a milonga or practica in Melbourne again. I've been so spoiled here and loathe the thought of going back to Australian men who rush you around the floor and push your arm like you're a poker machine!
The weather up until now has been warm and almost Summer-like but we had a massive storm last night and today has been very chilly. It's the first time I've had to wear my coat which I think I'll be taking tonight as well. I think I may also make it an alcohol free night as it's been constant with drinking every night although I haven't really been drunk. It's not the done thing here and you wouldn't risk it as a tourist. You can get a drink anywhere- I bought a beer from the milk bar across the road! You can get wine and spirits as well. A bottle of water and a bottle of beer cost the same price.
Okay, off to shower and get ready. I'm getting hungry and need food. Pictures soon- I promise!
Friday, August 14, 2009
Cementerio de la Recoleta and Furry Friends



Tuesday, August 11, 2009
El Martes en Buenos Aires
Day four of my holiday and all is well.
I think the jet lag has finally begun to lift so I´m starting to feel normal again. I´m trying to live the porteño lifestyle of late lunch and dinner and staying out late. Seems to work for them so why not?
I woke up on Sunday and thought to myself ¨I should get up soon or I´ll miss desayuno (breakfast) only to find it was nearly 2pm! I´d missed lunch as well! I quickly readied myself and headed down in the direction of Plaza Dorrego for the market,street tango and musicians when I realised I´d taken a wrong turn and ended up in Retiro! Never mind, I explored that area which is mainly a shopping precinct. I liked it because the city is generally pretty quiet on the weekend and that area is the height of activity. Buenos Aires is a great city to walk around. It began to get dark so I found my way home. By then I was getting pretty hungry so I decided to go downstairs to La Plata where I had been the night before because the food is amazing and when you do the conversion back to Aussie dollars, it´s bloody cheap too. My waiter from the night before welcomes me and says he´s glad I returned. I order un copa de vino tinto and view the menu. I decide on the salmon as it comes with papas fritas and salad. Very good again although nothing tops that beef.
After cenar, I return to my hostel and ask the guy at the desk where a good milonga is. He gets me excited about one in La Boca where they pick you up and on arrival receive a three course meal, 5 tangos shows, a tango orchestra and of course, lots of tango dancing. Then they drive you back at the end of the night. Excellent, I say. Call them up. He speaks rapid fire Spanish into the receiver,hangs up and tells me it doesn´t happen on Sundays! He passes me a post card with details of one that looks pretty good so I gussy up for the night and get a taxi down there.
For all you non tangoers out there, I will briefly explain how a milonga works. The music is played in what is known as a tanda which is usually 4 songs - 4 tangos, 4 vals <(waltz in tango rhythm) and 3 milongas, which is a faster rhythm. Between each tanda, they use a different style of music to note that the music style is about to change. This is known as the cortina or ´the curtain´. Getting dances in Buenos Aires is a whole different ball game. In Australia, we just ask people to dance. Over here, it´s a wordless transaction. The man stands near you and uses eye and head gestures to get your attention. If you want to dance, you make eye contact and nod. If you don´t, you just look at your shoes and pretend you didn´t see him. This allows him to move on and try someone else. Sometimes the man will even use cabeceos from across the room.
I walk in, find a seat at the back and then order a drink. Whilst at the bar, the tanda ends and the cortina is The Clash! I sit down and hope I get a dance. I don´t hope or wonder for very long as I get one straight away. He dances a full tanda with me and I sit down. Not long after that, I get asked again. Another tanda- I´m doing well. After my copa de vino tinto, I order a agua con gas as I´m dead thirsty by this stage. I´m not bothered by being there sola either until I spot a woman who looks just like Di only to find out it is! Major coinky dinky that we ended up in the same milonga out of many in Buenos Aires! My friends Sabrina and Ralph were with them too and it was good to see them. The milonga ends at 2am. I bid the group farewell and David helps me get a taxi home.
Monday, I made myself get up early as I´m trying to set my body clock to B´s A´s time . Still exhausted but I do it. I go to breakfast and chat with Luisa who works here.She´s very sweet and her english is good. I finally try the infamous dulce de leche and I have to say, it´s pretty bloody good! I have to take a couple of jars home. I know Gayle and Cathryn are gonna love it! Just as well I´ve walked everywhere as I´ll be twice the size getting home if I eat that stuff!
I got ready and headed towards Confiteria Ideal. I waited for Di and the others and after a while it was obvious they weren´t going to be there so I stayed and did a lesson. I have some work to do on my tango, that´s for sure!
After a gruelling 3 hour long lesson, I went in search of food downstairs and ordered some pasta. It was home made and fresh, but in true Argentine style, the sauce was boring but it hit the spot nonetheless. By this stage, I was retarded with exhaustion so I made my way home and slept for about 3 hours. I got dressed and went downstairs for dinner again! Mariano, who´s been looking after me, raced over and apologised that he couldn´t be my waiter as he was looking after the president of Antartica and his guests! Nay bother, I get the lovely Jorge and we get through ordering the meal with no problems. I order the medallion of beef again because it's sublime and have it with a rocket and tomato salad. More vinto tinto of course but only one glass tonight. I get back to my room and study the milonga guide for Monday and find one that's a 2 minute walk from here. I get there and lo and behold! David, Dianne and the Melbournites are all there! They have tango shows and the most amazing tango orchestra plays. This milonga is very cliquey so I don't get a dance but I don't mind. Ralph and Sabrina graciously offer to walk me home and they get a taxi immediatly. Actually, in a town of 40,000 cabs, it's pretty easy to grab one.
I know the title of this blog is El Martes en Buenos Aires, but I was falling asleep writing it so I saved it as a draft and I'm finishing it now and it's actually the very early hours of el jueves (thursday). I'll bring you up to speed with what's going on soon. Tomorrow we go to Comme Il Fait,the Manolo Blahnik of tango shoes and then to Cemeterio de la Recoleta where we will see the tomb of Eva Peron. Can't wait.
Dormir , tal vez e sueno- that's my bad attempt at saying ' To sleep perchance to dream' but I think I've fucked it royally. Lo siento...
Photos soon.
Monday, August 10, 2009
San Telmo´s Fire
¡Hola para Buenos Aires!
I can´t believe I´m finally here. Despite the fact that I am jetlagged to the max and feel like I´m coming down from an acid trip, I am totally loving it here.
I left Melbourne for Sydney on a 7am flight Saturday morning and boarded a plane for B´s A´s at 10.30. Flight was pretty cruisy except for the usual uncomfortableness of economy seats but even they aren´t really anything to complain about. I spent the majority of the flight watching movies and documentaries and caught a bit of sleep in between. We landed in Buenos Aires, were waved through customs and through to our waiting mini bus. I tried my mobile to find that I don´t have international roaming on it so no phone for me whilst here..
I gave the tour guide the address of Ayres Porteños and away we went. Driving out from the airport didn´t seem too dissimilar to Melbourne so there wasn´t any ooohhing or ahhhing . Eventually the driver pulled over and said we were at my hostel so David helped me with my suitcase and they were gone. The guy at the front desk knew who I was immediatly which was nice. Poor guy was nursing a pretty severe hangover and was consuming mate like there was no tomorrow! He completed all my details and then helped me with my suitcase up two flights of stairs. My room, which I envisioned to be akin to a broom closet is actually large with a double bed, side tables, a table with chairs to sit at and a large wardrobe. The shared bathroom is right across the hall. The place is old and I found out at breakfast from Luisa, the breakfast lady that it was built in 1920 as a rooming house for small families. It had been vacant and run down for a while until someone bought it and decided to open it as a backpackers to take advantage of the tourist trade- good move as it´s a pretty cool place. Nothing like Casa Bolivar where the others are staying but okay if like me, you just want a crash pad. The showers leave a lot to be desired but hey, you can get one and that´s all that matters!
Once I´d unpacked, showered and changed, I went out in search of coffee. A fellow blogger mentioned that if I want to get to know this city well, walk as much as possible so I´m taking her advice. I found a place a couple of blocks from here and braved my bad Spanish by asking for a cafe con leche (coffee with milk) which arrived quickly with a little biscuit and a small glass of soda water- nice touch. I´ve since discovered that this is de riguer. I ask how much and she replies ¨"ocho". I walk out thinking eight bucks for a coffee is pretty steep until I remember it´s in pesos, not dollars. I do the math and realise it´s pretty cheap.
I´ve been told many times and read about piropos which is just the word here for the attention and compliments men give you as you walk down the street. I received some by a group of men on my way to find coffee and a couple on the way back. Muy buena para mi alma!
I come back to my hostel and do some map reading which I find difficult as I´m exhausted from the flight. I give in to a cat nap and then get on the internet to try and remember where Dave,Di etc are staying as I completely forget where they tell me as I´m retarded with jetlag. A local who I think might work here starts speaking to me in Spanish. I tell him ´´no hablar Española- soy Australiana¨. He persists in trying to converse with me in Spanish and I get up to get a pen. He follows me to my room, peers inside the door and asks ´tu sola?¨ "Si" I reply. He laughs and asks why I have such a big bed for one person then suggests that maybe he could get in with me... ha ha- nice try, pal!
More map reading and still having difficulty. I´m going cross-eyed and feel ill from lack of sleep.
Then before I know it, I wake up and it´s 8pm! I get up and ring the tour guide and ask here the name of the hotel where she dropped my friends´ off and she gives me the details. I ring to speak to them but the front desk closes at 8. I decide to get ready and take a taxi down there to see if I can find them. The cabbie doesn´t speak English and I try to communicate with my broken Spanish. We get there and there´s no sign of life. I get him to bring me back here and I go to dinner at the restaurant downstairs. One of the waiters there speaks good English and he takes care of me. When Argentine´s tell you they have the best beef in the world, believe them. I ate the most divine piece of steak ever that night, not to mention some of the nicest red wine.
It´s 11pm and the restaurant is jammed with locals. Dinner at 11pm but when in Buenos Aires, do as the porteños do. My waiter then says he wants to give me a free shot of Limoncello and I accept. I pay the bill- Steak, papas fritas and 3 glasses of vinto tinto come to 60 pesos. What a bargain! My waiter tells me that he hopes I come back and he´ll see me again. I shuffle upstairs to my room feeling like a well fed princess and go to bed.
Thursday, August 06, 2009
Last Post Till Argentina
It's here.. finally!
My last day at work for just over 3 weeks. I'm getting through my work, tidying my very messy desk and setting up my 'out of office' message to let the world know I'll be in Buenos Aires.
So, for my grand audience of 1 or 2, this will be my last post until I reach my destination, settle in and explore the city a bit. I've decided to take my lap top with me as hand luggage, as my hostel has wi fi throughout and I can upload my pics to co-incide with my bloggage.
Still much to do, last minute run arounds tomorrow and then packing. Better make sure I'm under as bloody Qantas charge you $50 for EVERY kilo you're over. Bastards.
I'm both excited and nervous at the same time. I also have a hangover. I guess it should make for an interesting day....
So until then, hasta luego and I'll see you on the other side...
Wednesday, August 05, 2009
Seperation Anxiety

The Death Of Bunny Munro

Tuesday, August 04, 2009
He's Just Not That Into You- Duh...

What the world needs now is not another cliched and predictable movie.
I rented 'He's just not that into you' on Sunday night on the recommendation of friends who generally have credible film tastes. All I can say about it is, I've seen it and I never have to watch it again.
For those who have not seen nor wish to, here's MM's synopsis of said fillum. Characters include Gigi, the stalker chick who has a date with Connor who cuts their first date early to be with Anna who wants to be with Ben, a married man who is married to Janine because she said 'marry me or else'. She believes she is lucky in love. Then there's Beth and Neil who have had the long term relationship - Neil doesn't believe in marriage and Beth breaks up with him because she does. Gigi meets Alex the bar manager at his bar whilst stalking Connor. He becomes her confidante and adviser in all things male ("if he says that, he's blowing you off"). Mary does the advertising for a magazine in which Connor is her major client. She is having a cyber relationship with Jude who 'my spaces' her- the gay boys in the office advise her that this is the 21st century 'booty call'.
I think you can surmise from this description where it's all gonna go. Verse, chorus, verse..
All I can say is, thank god I watched 'Milk' first. Great film about a great man with a vision and message of hope.
Let's 'hope' all films of 'He's Just Not That Into You's' calibre will go away and die the cruel death it deserves.
Oh and if anyone can help me get that 90 minutes of my life back, I'd be most grateful.
Monday, August 03, 2009
The Countdown Begins
I can't believe it's only 5 more days till I leave for Buenos Aires! Despite the fact that I still have much to do before I go, I am sooooo excited!
A few things I'll do when I'm there..
Saturday, August 01, 2009
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)